Local surfer Michael deNicola recounts his ‘long ride’ from Boomers to Charthouse
By PABLO CAPRA
Special to The Malibu Times
Every surf spot has its champion of the long ride. There’s Laird Hamilton trimming from Little
Dume to Paradise Cove, Allen Sarlo starting from Third Point and shooting the Malibu Pier … and, in the last swell, Michael deNicola connecting Boomers to Charthouse.
DeNicola grew up watching swells wrap around the coast from his grand- parents’ hillside home in Castellammare, Pacific Palisades. He’d already imagined his future ride after noticing that the biggest waves would sometimes wrap around two points before expiring. He joined the USA Surf Team at 19, turned pro, then created an international surf contest called 5X. In the late 1990s, he began building an art career around his colorful, graffiti-like paintings. In 2010, he produced a film about Santa Cruz surf- ers called “The Westsiders.”

Stars aligned for his long ride on Jan. 5. The Harvest Buoy off Point Conception measured a wave height of 26.9 feet, the biggest winter swell in decades. The rain cleared up in the morning, and the tide receded to a low -0.8 feet at 3:08 p.m., which was necessary for success.
“On the way to the beach, I told my buddy Jesse Faen [also a former pro] that this could be the day I’d make it to Charthouse,” deNicola says.
Conditions were so hairy that a fire truck waited on the bluff for an accident to happen. Most surfers couldn’t paddle out through the windswept giants. deNicola got a push by jumping into the muddy creek as it rushed into the ocean.
“It wasn’t a beautiful day to surf, but I was excited by the energy in the water,” he says. “I rode a 7’7” board, shaped by Bruce Fowler, with a quad setup that had a fifth fin the size of a guitar pick to help with turns. We’d been playing with that design for about six years.”
The only others who made it into the lineup were Faen and Quinn Williamson. (An earlier session had been surfed by Edwin Martin, Richard “Evy” Evans, and Mo Magee.)
deNicola caught a number of waves while searching for his outlier. Around 4 p.m., with sunset approaching, he took off on one that allowed him through every section. He surfed past the lifeguard tower, the stairs, the Malibu Feed Bin, until, suddenly, the next point loomed up ahead.
“I knew I definitely didn’t want to get stuck in those rocks, so I did everything I could to keep moving, even as the wave began to flatten out,” he says.
The first to realize that something remarkable was happening, Martin narrates, while filming, “He’s going to make it to Charthouse.”
Tristan “Red Dog” Welch filmed the ride’s end from the parking lot of Mastro’s Ocean Club. He and his friends were shocked when deNicola appeared. They ask, “Where is he going?” and “Does he have a motor on that thing?” Then Welch declares, “That’s the wave of his life,” and they begin to cheer, “Make it!” until the half-mile ride ends just past the restaurant.
“I was high on adrenaline from the victory, but my legs were so tired that I practically had to crawl out of the water,” deNicola says. “I started surfing at 12. I’ve surfed big waves all over the world. I’ve had injuries that I thought would prevent me from ever surfing again. Yet, at 55, I’d experienced a breakthrough at a beach I’d been surfing my whole life. It feels even more special to find a great wave to yourself in a city as populous as Los Angeles.”
The only other time that someone is known to have accomplished this feat was in the winter of 1998-99 (Surfline wrongly says 1982-83), when ex-pro Donny Wilson surfed a full mile, to just past the Sunset Mesa intersection.

Wilson remembers: “I airdropped into the biggest wave of my life and didn’t cut back once, just raced straight ahead on a 7’6” gun, shaped by Steve Wilson and given to me by Local Motion in Hawaii. Except for Allen Sarlo and Matt Wessen, nobody else was in the water.”
Wilson also lays claim to being the only surfer to ride around the Malibu Pier, in the summer of 1998.
On the biggest day of the 1970s, Sept. 27, 1975, Paul Lovas rode a 9’10” gun, shaped by Robbie Dick, to the Charthouse restaurant, but didn’t make it around, according to his memoir “Topanga Beach Experience” (2011).
deNicola hopes his long ride will inspire young surfers to achieve their goals. That’s also the idea behind his cartoon character, Torquato, “born of water and stoke, the action hero inside each of us who says, ‘Yes You Can!!!’” He currently has an art show at Paliskates, 1021 N. Swarthmore Ave., and invites surfers and skaters to bring their boards for a free spray-painted stencil of Torquato on March 25, between 2 and 4 p.m. Find out more at www. iamtorquato.com.
Pablo Capra is the Archivist for the Topanga Historical Society and author of “Topanga Beach: A History” (2020). More at topangahistoricalsociety.org.















Daybreak. Dawn patrol. Solo session. The sea air is clean and crisp. The morning sun slowly rises, warming the frosty coastline. A clutch of sea gulls glides by, swooping and fishing just beyond a massive kelp bed. A solitary surfer bobs like a single buoy, alone with his innermost thoughts. For most, it gets pretty lonely in the frigid water waiting for the first set of the day to roll in and ride.


As he recalls it, he and his dad learned to stand up at the same time, and many of his early surfing memories involve the father-son duo. “Once, we were driving down to San Onofre on a really crappy day and the waves were super small. On the way, I watched this guy riding a wave and I was like, ‘Stop the car.’ He was riding a longboard and just had this style and grace and I was mesmerized. ‘That’s brilliant. That’s beautiful. That guy’s radical.’ It was Matt Young and he was out doing his thing. And inherently, I was mesmerized and knew that that’s what I wanted. ‘He’s got style. He’s got flow. All right, that’s where I’m headed. I want to do that too.’”
Today is no exception. One look at his abstract expressionist artwork (channeling greats like Pollock and Rauschenberg), whether his chosen medium is cracked, broken surfboards, reclaimed-glass windowpanes, canvas, resin, wood, or simply paper, you can see that there’s an underlying structure to it. At the same time, there’s also a movement, a colorful, kinetic adaptation to the layered crescendo of furious brushstrokes. There’s an ebb and flow to his self-expression, just as there is in surfing.

“I’ve spent time exploring parts of the world like Indonesia and Fiji where few people have gone. And seeing the young, local kids and going into these poor areas, you might think, they don’t have much. But then, they’re all smiling and singing and they’re super-happy. Granted, they might not have the things that I have. But, on the flipside, it seems like they’ve tapped into something special that I don’t possess myself. Contentment. And it reminds me to realign my priorities and, hopefully, to ensure that I’m doing what I’m doing for the right reasons to reach others. I find these experiences substantial and grounding.”
He decided to change all that by creating a new format called the Red Bull 5x, a type of Skins Game for surfing. Five top surfers each dropped $5 into a hat. Then, they paddled out and surfed world-class, idyllic spots like Cabo, Mexico, Hawaii or Fiji. The hour-and-a-half-long “expression session” was taped. The pros then judged and scored themselves based on five categories: Mojo (Overall session), Boost (Best air), Torque (Best turn), Combo. (Best ride) and Push. (Progressive maneuver). The winner took home the pool, a whopping $25. The whole “contest” was broadcast on NBC, Fox and Fuel TV.
He may be humble about his contribution to the progression of the sport, but he’s also very proud of his accomplishment. As he puts it, it changed the face of modern contest surfing for the better. “I simply created a platform for them to display what they’re truly capable of. And they were able to score themselves and we broadcast it so that kids watching it could say, ‘There’s my hero. That’s what he can do. That’s what he thinks is cool.’ So I really wanted to bypass all the bullshit and it wasn’t about money. It was about bragging rights. It was about a bro-down. It worked. The surfers loved it. And, most importantly, the skill level in competitions just went ‘Boom.'”
Magic indeed. No matter whether it’s a secret full moon surf session in Tahiti or creating a custom art installation series for a private client in Beverly Hills, the one constant in de Nicola’s life is change. Just like water. And, for the boy-turned-man who’s always lived near the flowing sea, he wouldn’t have it any other way.